7th August 2004, 11:49 AM
Card Faking Tutorial
This tutorial is specifically tailored for the recent Hidden Legends style, the current style used in the US cards, and specifically the Zeo blanks edited by me. Other blanks may be different sizes and will need different fonts. However, it should be suitable for older styles of ADV I made if you fix up certain things, but Hidden Legends look a LOT better than anything previous (IMO). This tutorial also is specifically for Photoshop users, but some elements can be implied with other programs.
I am not saying that this is the ONLY and ABSOLUTE way to go about your cards, but it's very accurate and much of it is based around research I made into the advancey world.
First, you need the blanks, symbols and fonts! This should be obvious
Symbols and blanks are both available from the url located in my sig. You need to scrounge around a little bit. Tis an archive of sorts, follow the folders.
If you are on Photoshop, open the character and paragraph toolbars (go to the Window menu and select Show Character and Show Paragraph if you don’t know how to). These allow you to condense text and justify when necessary. Also, the layers toolbar helps in a big way. If you aren’t on Photoshop, ignore this step. Now, let’s go!
We’ll start with the name. I use Gill Sans Condensed Bold, size 25 at 100% width. Place it 1 pixel to the right of the left edge of the silver image border, and five pixels above it. Simple. If you’re doing a Magma vs. Aqua or a VS (gym leader) style thing, I use size 12.5, unconfirmed but accurate nonetheless. If you’re on a program that doesn’t allow decimals, just use 13). The forenames should be in this size and completely capitalized (eg. TEAM AQUA’S Spheal). Go back to size 25 for the normal name of course
HP next. This is Futura LT Medium Bold, size 19, still at 100% width. Have it 5 pixels to the left of the edge of the type symbol, and 5 pixels above the silver image border. Couldn’t be easier ^_^
Illus is Futura LT Medium Italic at size 7, 100% width. 5 pixels left of the INNER left edge of the image border. Have it just about vertically central with the bar, just until it looks correct. Make sure that the illus gives credit to the actual artist
Great. I hate this bit.
Powers/bodies first. For basics, have the power/body symbol on the first row of full circles, vertically central with the rows above and below (the one above is half circles). The left edge of the symbol should be central between the first and second circles on the row. The power/body name goes 20 pixels to the right of the symbol, and it is Gill Sans Condensed Bold, size 19.2 (that precise, yes, but 19 will suffice) at 89% width (use the character toolbar to set width on Photoshop, otherwise skip the condensing unless you have another way). Use the appropriate shade of red or green.
For evolutions, do everything the same, except that the left edge of the power/body symbol is instead central between the second and third circles and the name is 10 pixels to the right of the symbol.
If the card has an ex/dual type/shining rule or other, leave a row of circles but leave everything else the same as for a basic.
Now, for the effect of this power (this also applies to attack effects). This is where things get complicated. Draw a text box with the text tool (drag instead of click) so that each margin is 10 pixels from the edge of the light colored box. It should start on the topmost part of the first row of circles underneath the power/body or the attack and cost. Use the JUSTIFY command on the paragraph toolbar. This makes the text line up with both margins by increasing or decreasing the distance between spaces (This feature is limited to Photoshop users, it does not work on elements). For the text itself, use Gill Sans regular/roman at any size between 10 and 17, with 96% width. Go smaller if you really need to, but people might have trouble reading. Use the largest size allowable for the effect’s content. If you have more than one attack/power/body with an effect box, the same size MUST be used on each occasion.
NOTE! This is now incorrect! 96% width needed. Feh.
Now for attacks. Energy symbols first.
For 1 Energy cost attacks, have the symbol central on the second circle of the row. EG;
e-O-e-e-e (where O = the energy symbol and e = the empty circles).
From then on (attacks with 2 Energy cost or more), you go from the first circle.
Quite easy. Keep the symbols central, and they should all be the same distance apart!
For the attack name (Gill Sans Condensed Bold, size 23, 89% width), if you have a cost of 1 to 3 Energy for this attack, have the leftmost edge of the attack name 5 pixels right from the left edge of the fourth circle. For 4 Energy attacks, have it 5 pixels right from the left edge of the fifth circle. For 5 Energy attacks, put it 8 pixels right of the last symbol of the cost. Either way, it is always 1 pixel up from the bottom edge of the symbols.
Attack damage is Gill Sans Regular/Roman size 23 at 89% width. It is 10 pixels away from the right edge of the light colored box. The bottom of the damage always lines up with the bottom of the attack name. If you have + or x, + is size 12 Gill Sans Condensed Bold at 100% width, lines up with the bottom of the attack damage and is central in the 10 pixel space between the damage and the right of the box. As for x, the placement is the same, but it is size 12 Gill Sans Regular/Roman at 100% width.
Go back to the previous lickle bit if you still need to know how to do attack effects.
Shift the attacks around so that they look correct, and there is a sort of an even amount of space between them and the top and bottom of the light box. It can’t be EXACT, but it looks better if there is a similar amount of space.
Congratulations! You have finished the attacks!
But it’s not over yet! Darn. The bottom part is yet to do.
Weakness; situate the symbol central to the word, 1 pixel below it. The left and right edges of the symbol should be halfway between each “e” in Weakness. If you have 2 Weaknesses, have both symbols 1 pixel apart, keeping them central with the word. Exact positions are unconfirmed and I’m too lazy to do so.
Resistance; if your card has it, lay down the -30 first. It is Gill Sans Condensed Bold size 8 at 89% width. Have it 3 pixels right of the last “e” of Resistance. Next, put the symbol central with the word and -30, as though they were 1 word. The symbol should start roughly where the “t” begins. 1 pixel down. Again, 2 Resistance’s exact positions are unconfirmed, but put them central again.
Retreat cost; simple, 1 pixel down, keep it central. No further elaboration. Go away.
Actually, stay. I have the very bottom parts yet to do.
We’ll start with the rarity symbol. It goes 20 pixels to the left of the INNER right side of the border (quite easy). Keep the bottom of it in line with the Nintendo/Pokémon copyright. Next is the card’s number. It is Futura LT Medium Bold Italic, size 7, 100% width. Again, keep it vertically aligned with the copyright, and have it roughly 3 pixels left of the rarity symbol.
Finally, the 9 digit ID. I tend to make up anything here. Futura LT Medium Regular at size 7, 100% width. Dump it 3 pixels left of the left edge of the Weakness “swirl,” and keep it vertical with the copyright again. Easy.
You’ve made a card. Yay!
Evolutions are laid out exactly the same as basics except the powers/bodies. Also, they have the “evolves from” text. This is Gill Sans Bold Italic size 8 at 100% width, and only ever says “Evolves from (Pokémon)”. They scrapped the “Put the Stage 1/2 on the Basic/Stage 1 card” text. Slap it 8 pixels from the bottom corner of the little box that says “Stage 1/2” and 2 pixels down from the Illus. bar.
Pokémon-ex are quite easy to sort. Same as basics, but you just put the ex symbol 10 pixels right of the name.
In fact, the same goes for the Shining Pokémon and their symbol, but pull that down 1 pixel so that it is 4 pixels away from the silver image border instead of 5.
OK, I believe I’ve covered everything now. I hope that this is comprehendible enough for anyone to use ^_^
If you like, use Humanist in place of Gill Sans.
I can suggest bookmarking this topic or something ridiculous like that, since it will come in very useful if you're using hidden legends.
The next thing you'll be getting from me is dual blanks and a theorem on how they work...
Last edited by Fangking Omega; 15th October 2004 at 11:00 PM.